Recently, we (Ing Sind and Ingg Thong) had the rare opportunity to attend two workshops (Fig. 1) in Pekan conducted by Majlis Biodiversiti Pahang, Enggang Holdings, and facilitated by Dr Reuben Clements and Mandai Nature (Singapore). The workshops were aimed at working towards establishing green initiatives and improving knowledge-sharing about biodiversity between Singapore and Pahang to bolster climate resilience.
The first workshop began with a presentation by Dr Reuben Clements from the Zoological Society of London. We were greatly inspired by the following pillars that Dr Reuben shared:
- Mission before organisation,
- Build partnerships based on trust, not based on control,
- Promote others rather than yourself
- Make constellations and not lone stars
Doubtless, these sentiments were guiding the discussions that occurred over the course of the workshops. Dr Reuben then passed the floor to Justine Vaz from The Habitat Foundation, who shared more on the Green Print for Pahang, a collaborative document created by academics and specialists in Malaysia to inform and guide policymakers for the best course of action on tackling the climate crisis.
“Let us make constellations and not lone stars.” With these words at the forefront of our minds and guiding our actions, we began our discussions earnestly.
The robust nature of the workshop allowed the participants to engage and share with each other in a rare and enlightening manner, with collaboration towards a greener future being the main thrust of the workshop. Another focus was Pahang’s 30×30 Green Plan, a highly daring and lofty plan in which 30% of Pahang’s forests and natural spaces would be set aside for conservation and protected under various state and federal policies and funded via carbon capture credits.
The discussions of the first day set the tone and scope for the second workshop the next day, where a more species-specific approach was taken. The workshop was facilitated by Dr Roopali Raghavan and Dr Andie Ang and focused on how to build integrative species action plans that engage and empower local communities to aid in biodiversity conservation.
We felt inspired by the speakers and the engaging discussions on the different biodiversity initiatives that have been ongoing in Pahang and Singapore and, most importantly, the plans laid out for a greener future. With our spirits lifted, we looked forward to our field trip to Pekan the next day.
A field visit to the peat swamps of Pekan
Often referred to as the ‘Black Jewel of Pahang’, the peat swamps of Pekan span an impressive 92,000 hectares (larger than Singapore)! The main mode of access to the Black Jewel would be by boat, as the river, Sungai Bebar, runs for 50km through the swamps to the sea off the eastern coast of Peninsular Malaysia. We were fortunate enough to be granted access by our new friends at Enggang Holdings, who currently lease the land. The field visit started before dawn because the jetty, which serves as the entrance to the river, was a 90-minute drive from our hotel. Another reason for the early start was to hopefully catch sight of the rare Wrinkled Hornbills (Aceros corrugatus) that are known to fly over the river near the jetty at the first break of dawn. Furthermore, it was recently discovered that there was a population of the Raffles Banded Langurs (Presbytis femoralis) in the swamps, a Critically Endangered species of primate which are active in the wee hours of dawn that Dr Andie wanted to see. We were also hoping to find any evidence of the elusive and incredibly rare Selangor Mudsnake (Raclitia indica, Fig. 3), which is known from several sites within Pahang (Lubuk Yu and Tasik Chini) and could possibly occur in the Pekan Peatswamps.
We arrived at the jetty just as the sun was rising over the horizon; any tiredness we had from our early morning call vapourised upon our first gaze of the obsidian finish of the river. We were especially excited about this visit for many reasons. Firstly, this would mark our first experience in a peat swamp forest and exploring new habitats is always a welcome experience. Secondly, the highly elusive False Gharial (Tomistoma schlegelii, Fig. 4) had been sighted in the river recently! The False Gharial had been on our list of animals to see for the longest time, being Ing Sind’s favourite crocodilian. However, we knew it was a long shot to see them during this visit as they are shy and cryptic animals that are rarely encountered.
Photograph courtesy of Craig Justin Tan.
Our gracious host, Mr Bakhtiar Talhah, the Chief Operations Officer in Enggang, showed us around. Whilst chatting with Mr Bakhtiar (Fig. 7) over the course of the boat ride and lunch, he shared Enggang’s vision for conserving the peat swamp and its fringe forests. They imagined a restored and thriving ecosystem that would be a refuge for flora and fauna and a living bulwark against the climate crisis. He also shared the rich history of the peat swamp, where an old trading port used to be located. Travellers from far and wide would arrive at the river from the sea to trade with the indigenous Jakun people. That spirit of collaboration and local support is still thriving as many of the Jakun living in or around the peat swamp are engaged by Enggang to act as boat drivers or guides.
As our boats drifted serenely along Sungai Bebar, passing clumps of Giant Swamp Pandan (Pandanus helicopus) hugged the rugged banks, our eyes scanned the dark waters for any movement. Suddenly, Ingg Thong spotted a sinuous form gently making its way across the river: a snake! Our boatman navigated speedily but cautiously towards the serpent, careful not to scare the creature away before its identity could be ascertained. As we inched closer and closer, the characteristic bars on the nape gave the species away, and we realised that the animal in question was a juvenile Blackwater Rat Snake (Xenelaphis hexagonotus, Fig. 6), a specialist in blackwater and swamp forest habitats! One of our targets for the area! We had to stop ourselves from dancing on the tiny boat!
Our boats docked at a small island, a slightly raised mound that becomes an island during shallow waters. We eagerly hopped off and began exploring on foot. The ground was mud meshed with tangles of roots and leaf litter, interspersed by clear puddles within which patches of frogspawn could be seen (a good sign!). Passing by the massive stilted roots of Simpoh (Dillenia grandifolia), we realised that another swamp inhabitant had been making its presence known. Large traverse claw marks could be seen splitting the smooth bark apart (Fig.8). These claws could only have belonged to the famed honey eater, the Malayan Sun Bear (Helarctos malayanus). Scanning the crown of the tree, however, did not yield the sleeping form of a bear; it must have moved off before our arrival.
In the distance, we heard the melodious chorus of an unknown Anuran. Rushing to the source, we scanned the puddles for any sign of calling individuals. Could it have been the calls of the enigmatic Blackwater Swamp Toad (Pseudobufo subasper), we wondered. Alas, whilst we managed to record the call we heard, we could not identify the source, and this mystery had to be revisited at a later date as the now hungry group beckoned us onward for lunch.
The importance of the peat swamp
Swamps, much like herptiles, have an undeservedly nasty reputation; perhaps this is why we find them charming. Many imagine a foetid putrid bog with clinging mud and lurking ogres, but this could not be further from the truth. Swamps are an amazing and unique landscape which hosts a myriad of specialised and endemic animals and plants. Peat swamps are one of the most threatened habitats in Southeast Asia. The main threat facing these swamps is deforestation for agriculture, as they are often set alight in preparation for the planting of crops. Much of the haze issues the region has been facing for the past few decades are linked to the burning of peat swamp forests in Borneo and Sumatra. These swamps are targeted as they are a rich natural source of fertiliser due to the build-up of plant matter over the course of hundreds, if not thousands, of years. Most swamps are inaccessible due to the difficulty of traversing the waterlogged terrain. Hence, precious little is known about peat swamps and what species assemblages they contain.
The black-coloured kopi-O waters (Fig. 8) are a result of the build-up of humic and tannic acids, which are released from decaying organic matter from the peat. This also creates a high-acidity environment in which only peat swamp specialists are able to withstand and thrive. The delicate and dainty Tussy’s Fighting Fish (Betta tussyae, Fig. 11) inhabits the slow-flowing streams that feed into the larger Sungai Bebar.
As we bid goodbye to the shining black rivers of Pekan, we both mused on our part to play in this ecosystem. Thank you for reading our long post and allowing us to close this reflection with several heartfelt comments of our own. The very nature of biodiversity conservation mirrors the virtues of the organisms we wish to conserve; a forest is made up of so many collaborative beings working together to support a thriving ecosystem. We arrived at the natural conclusion that we will strive towards equitable knowledge sharing between Pahang and Singapore because, at the end of it all, ultimately, conserving the Black Jewel of Pahang (the Pekan Peat Swamp) is a collaborative endeavour for the climate resilience of the greatest jewel of all, our dear Mother Earth.
Authors: Law Ing Sind & Law Ingg Thong
HSS Co-founders
Herpetological Society of Singapore 